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SANKUANZ

    

        Sankuanz was founded by designer Shanguan Zhe in 2008, who lives in Xiamen with his team. Through their sojourn through China, the Sankuanz team has thoroughly researched many nuances of traditional textile processing and design art, combining a multifaceted approach with tradition and modern fashion to illustrate his use of hybridism. Although Shanguan's designs may appear anything but simple, at the heart of his ethos lies a love for design that translates to a simplicity,placing an emphasis on comfort and cloth texture.  Apart from these, Shangguan Zhe keeps trying various matching of fabrics, in which wool, cotton, linen and chiffon could go together. His fashion aesthetic is closely tied to his delicate feeling for life and the immediate capture of mood, which add thick poetic feeling to his seemingly plain works.

Late American artist Cy Twombly was the inspiration for the recent Men's Spring 2018 Show in Paris, an artist mainly known for "romantic symbolism" that can be interpreted through shapes, symbols that large scale works with a graffiti-like quality. Twombly was also an influence on Jean Michel Basquiat and Fransceco Clemente. Zhe saw Cy's retrospective gallery at the Pompidou this past fall and was drawn to the innocent strength in work. The current collection is an homage to the simplicity and innocence in Cy's work. The contrast between classic cuts and contemporary favorites created a dialogue that was both fresh and reinvigorating with central pieces being rooted in workwear--such as bomber jackets, fatigue camo and wide shorts. As one of the more promising new brands showing in Europe, Sankuanz glowed with an energy & aura that threw a kaleidoscope of influences and atypical fabrics into the mix with its offerings of battered garments, elongated military jackets, comically large bags as well as poetic musings printed in contemporary typography.

Vastly superior was the tailoring, a nod to the artist’s Italian origin, that brought about a nuanced use of layering with bi-layer jackets that served well cut on their own, or as  a pairsof bomber and jacket, jacket and overcoat. As for the paint-coated muslins and coated fabrics, they stayed on the right side of pliant as coats or trousers. The final group in scribbles and paint splatters was reminiscent of Twombly’s work, and radiated with energy.

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